Be protective and win clan wars, all you need a proper guide and proper bases,so it's time for base designs classes.
so a lot of this info might not be new to you. However, I'm still going to try and cover the important things, breaking them down so hopefully everyone can understand them, no matter what stage of TH9 war you're at. I'll also share stuff that I've discovered, talk about some recent trends, and link to other base design-related content at the end if you're interested in more.
Since the introduction of the poison spell, TH9 offence has outpaced TH9 defence, and now even more so with the added 30 seconds and the extra donated dark spell. Against strong war clans, your base will likely be 3 starred no matter what it looks like. However, lots of clashers aren't at that level, and even against strong clans, good layouts defending a few times can make a big difference.
When it comes to TH9 base building, it's all about trade-offs. Attack compositions are incredibly flexible and attack strategies are constantly evolving, meaning you can't defend everything. The goal of this guide is NOT to tell you what your base should look like but to explain various ways of making different types of attacks more difficult. Treat it like a pot of ideas; you choose what to use and what to ignore, or maybe you'll be inspired and come up with something totally new.
Part 1: The Defensive AQ
Most attacks devote a portion of the army to kill the AQ. If she doesn't die, the whole attack can fall apart. Currently, it’s considered best to offset her away from the center because with a centralized AQ, the attacker can approach her quite easily from any angle they want.
On defense, you want to know where your AQ will stand when troops start engaging her, so a popular idea is to contain her in a compartment. If you do this, the recommendation is 3+ tiles between the AQ and the wall on all sides. However, note that with 3 tiles, troops stopping at buildings 4 tiles from the wall will aggro the AQ and cause her to jump (because she can't reach them from behind).
There are all sorts of wall configurations used to guard the AQ compartment, with the goal of making it a hassle to reach her with wallbreakers, thereby forcing a jump spell. However, it does require a lot of walls, so the alternative is to let them wallbreak to your AQ but use defences & high-HP buildings to make the attacker invest something to get her. This also makes it a bit harder to get to her from the other side of the base.
Now, since your AQ is offset, if a sizeable army goes straight at her, there's no realistic way to protect her from dying, especially if they include both heroes. Usually I don't mind if they do that because they'll get your AQ but probably not too much else. However, there are a few ways in which a small amount of troops can exploit an offset AQ, and these are worth keeping in mind:
- AQ Walk (AQ & healers)I've devoted a whole section below to countering AQ walks/charges, but in terms of an attacker using it specifically to kill your AQ, here are some quick tips:
- To discourage them even bringing it, don't put anything of value (esp. giant bombs/ADs) near your AQ in range of an AQ walk.
- If the attacker does go for the AQ walk, they will want to keep her alive. This means they'll bring rages if the healers can't keep up with the incoming damage, and as a defender you want them to use those rages up (and her ability). One way to do this is to have multiple point defences (at least 2 or 3) targeting her while she's on her way to your AQ. Things like the defensive BK, skeleton traps, and the CC can also help.
- If you're willing to invest walls, you can cover up your AQ trigger radius, which means attackers have to wallbreak/jump/EQ in to get her.
- DragonsThis option invests 2 dragons with the sole job of taking out the AQ. Sometimes a rage and/or more dragons are used, but the more they bring the less they have for everything else. There are a number of ways to defend this:
- AD by the AQ, external black mine, or sweeper pointing outwards (one of these is usually enough, more than that may compromise the rest of your base against air)
- High-HP buildings to stall drags in range of air-targeting defences.
- An unbroken trash ring means attackers have to spend troops to funnel the drags or risk having them circle the base instead of going in. Pushing the trash ring out makes that even more likely, but also creates spots where the drags and/or funnelling troops will be out of range of any defences.
- King Swap (BK & golem)Probably the most popular option is to use a golem, wallbreak/jump the BK in, and swap him for the AQ. It's very hard to stop unless the attacker messes up, but you can try to make that more likely:
- Small bombs placed at least one tile out and/or wiz tower to take out wallbreakers
- Again, a high-HP trash ring in range of defences prevents a free funnel and can hold troops up for a few seconds.
- Placing defences outside the walls can minimize the attacker's options regarding where they enter. One option is to space them out; this picture has 4 possible locations a golem will head, and because they're all out of range of each other, making a wide funnel is hard (e.g. putting a golem at spot #3 only guards a small area for wizards) meaning if the attacker isn't careful, their BK could walk. Another option is to bunch them up, which tries to force the golem go around rather than in.
- The defensive BK, skeleton traps, and the CC (especially if you offset it, discussed later) can really hinder a king swap.
There are other ways of exploiting an offset AQ, but if you discourage those 3, most attackers will just resort to the regular method: a kill squad (KS) with both heroes. They can come from the side you've offset your AQ or they can bring a larger KS and approach from further away, hoping to get eliminate some objectives on the way to killing your AQ.
Part 2: Compartment Sizes
If the attacker takes the long way to your AQ, the general rule is to not allow her to be reached with a single jump or 4 quakes. In other words, force a double jump. To do that, the middle compartments have to be at least 9 tiles long(including the walls). Note that splitting the middle compartment does the same thing, as long the whole section spans at least 9 tiles.
This often leads to bases with large, spread-out compartments, and I've noticed a growing number of them. This tends to lower the total number of compartments in the base. It doesn't matter too much against war clans that use primarily defence-targeting troops. However, if you're going up against a clan that uses something like GoWiWi or GoWiPe, these bases can be quite vulnerable to getting tripled since there aren't many walls to hinder those troops, so it's something to be aware of.
Part 3: Defending against Air
It used to be that GoLaLoon (and penta perhaps) was the only air attack you had to be worried about. But now you've got AQ walks/charges, MAX attacks, dragons, zapquakes... it's a lot to think about, but the fundamental part has always stayed the same, which is where we'll start.
Air Defence Placement
Most air attacks try and take out a few of the ADs (and sometimes the AQ) right at the start, so your AD placement in relation to the AQ is absolutely crucial. There are lots of possible configurations, generally ranging from all 4 ADs far awayfrom the AQ to one AD near her, even in the same compartment. They all can be exploited in some way, but here are some basics:
- Having multiple ADs near the AQ is really risky because of the possibility of some sort of KS taking them out together (e.g. GoLaLoon). I've seen a handful of bases try to bait a shattered (2 golem) LaLoon by putting two ADs close to the AQ and rely on the rest of the base to stop the LaLoon part, but it's not easy to do, particularly if the traps are known.
- One AD near the AQ (and the other 3 far away) is quite common, often because it can be hard to fit 4 ADs on one side of the base. However, whether the AD is in the same compartment as the AQ or a neighboring one, there is the threat of using one golem & heroes to get one AD & AQ (i.e. CB LaLoon). To counter this, one option is to stall the KS with the defensive BK and/or ground skeleton traps by the AQ/AD, or even just move the AD deeper into the base. But with CB LaLoon especially, the air portion is the main attack, and defending that will be discussed below.
- If you have an AD right next to the AQ, four lightnings will kill the AD and severely weaken/kill the AQ (depending on her level). Not many people do this so I personally didn't think it was a big deal, but then it happened to me :(
- It's usually not a great idea to have your ADs in range of an AQ walk. The AQ range is 5 tiles, so you want your ADs at least 4 tiles away from the outer wall.
- Generally, ADs in range of each other will take down hounds faster, so it's not necessarily a bad thing to have them somewhat close by. However...
- Be aware of how many ADs are accessible by an AQ from any one compartment. If she can access 3+ ADs from a single spot (or by an AQ charge), the rest of the base will be crippled against air, especially against dragons. On this base, if I get my AQ to the red dot, she can reach 3 ADs quite easily, and so that's what I did when I hit this base (+ zapquake 4th AD + dragons).
- Although attacks using back-end loons are less common, you don't want to forget about them. Look at the overall air coverage from your ADs & AQ. You don't have to cover every defence, but you don't want to neglect a large area either.
Air Traps
- Doubling black mines on ADs is still quite effective against hounds. I personally like doubling them on the first two ADs I think attackers will target.
- The red bombs are best positioned by defences away from the ADs so they target loons. If they're too close to the ADs, the lava pups might trigger them and render them useless. (I've seen some discussion on also using the black bombs in this way to kill some more loons and/or keep the hounds from popping so the attacker has no pups for cleanup. I think it could work in certain instances, especially if the attacker doesn't bring cleanup of their own or doesn't realize the hounds aren't popping and still uses rages/hastes.)
- Air skeleton traps can be used in a similar fashion, although if they lock onto the hounds it might just give the attacker more cleanup. Most air attacks have a ground component as well so you can still set them on ground.
Teslas/Wizard Towers
Teslas are brutal against loons, and the “tesla farm” idea (group of teslas in a surprise location) has become quite popular. If you use it to defend air attacks, you have two options:
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The idea is for the teslas to shred the hound(s) before the loons reach the AD, so the AD and teslas will have time to take out the loons too. Black air mines can be placed on the AD to ensure hounds die even quicker. It can be very effective especially if the attacker doesn't expect it, but if they quickly send an extra hound and/or speed up the loons, they may be able to power through it.
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If the teslas are out of range of the AD, this means they'll immediately target loons. In theory, this is a better idea since the loons are the real damage dealers, but practically it can be hard to find a good spot for it since you might have to awkwardly separate your ADs. However, if set up correctly it can be quite tricky to deal with.
Wizard towers work well with teslas, especially if they're away from ADs, as they can deal splash damage to loons. The age-old recommendation of putting your wizard towers out of range of your ADs is also a good idea, but I would be wary about putting wizard towers on the edge. If they can be targeted directly, either group them up, trap them, or just put another defence in the way (basically you don't want 2 loons to come right in and take out your wiz tower).
Sweepers
With MAX attacks and zapquakes, people are sometimes bringing less and less spells to the LaLoon part of their attack. This is good news for the sweeper because loons without spells have a rough time going against one, and even with spells the sweeper can stall them for a few precious seconds.
The main way to use them is to blow back loons heading to an AD. Note that there are usually multiple angles loons can travel to an AD, so with two sweepers you have some flexibility about what you want to cover. Another good option is to influence loons near a tesla farm, whether it's blowing them into it or pushing them away.
Loon Pathing
Something important to be aware of is how incoming loons will path to your ADs. The more time it takes for them to get there, the more time your ADs have to take out the hounds and loons, and the best way to increase that time is to make loons stop at other defences.
In this case, there is only one stop (the archer tower) before the AD, which is pretty much nothing. Adding defences can create more stops, but be careful about opening other paths to the AD, which doesn't help since attackers will just deploy multiple groups of loons. Instead, having only one defence on the outer layer forces loons to converge on it.
Taking this a step further, if we get rid of the defence right in front of the AD, we can try to path loons away from it. If you set up your defences like this, any loons deployed from the front will be forced around the AD, leaving it standing for longer. However, remember that loons might be able to reach it from behind or the sides, so you can set up those defences to path away from the AD as well. A really extreme example of this is something like a ring of defences around the AD.
Obviously, you can't do something that elaborate for all of your ADs. Nevertheless, I think it's worth it to force loons to make at least a couple of stops before they reach them, and maybe even try to path the loons away from a few, especially if you think your base is a bit susceptible to LaLoon.
Part 4: Defending against Ground (i.e. hogs)
The keys to defending hog-based armies haven’t changed all that much. Giant bombs are still the primary line of defence, so we’ll start there.
Giant Bombs
Single giant bombs do significant damage to hogs, and double giant bombs (DGBs) wipe them out completely. So, location and placement are incredibly important. With four bombs total, you have three options.
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Using 4 singles allows a fair amount of flexibility, and can really surprise the attacker on a fresh hit. However, you still want to make it somewhat difficult for cleanups, so put them next to defences, away from the AQ, and separate them so that one heal cannot cover multiple bombs. If I can, I also like to put them in low-DPS areas (i.e. ADs, mortars) to try and make the resulting heal less valuable.
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To make this option work, the DGB should be a fair distance away from your AQ so that an attacker can't take eliminate both without a big investment of troops. You also want your DGB to be protected (explained below).
Aside: Non-Standard DGBs
This guide is already quite long, so I'm not going to go into setting up a proper DGB; if you want to learn about thathere is a video. What I am going to briefly discuss are some unorthodox DGB setups.So here we have the standard DGB. It's effective, but it's not the only way to make one. Since teslas are also defences and hogs always path around non-defence buildings, you can make some odd-looking DGBs that actually work. Extra care needs to be taken regarding pathing because often the hogs need to approach the defences from specific angles for the DGB to work, but if you can get it right, these can be difficult to spot when scouting. -
Ideally, you want your DGBs to be protected, separated, and not too close to the AQ. Fulfilling these conditions is not always easy, but good bases follow them to some extent.a) Protected: First, the defences surrounding the DGB shouldn't be in range of an AQ walk. Second, you don't want the attacker to be able to trigger your DGB with a small group of hogs. This means having at least a few defences the hogs have to go through. Springs, teslas, and even the defensive BK can help if you don't have many defences available.b) Separated: The idea here is to prevent a single group of troops eliminating both DGBs. Exactly how far apart varies; having a (no-bomb) compartment in between them is great, DGBs in neighboring compartments is risky but can work if they're far enough from each other. You definitely don't want them in the same compartment.c) Not too close to the AQ: Most ground attacks use a KS to take out the AQ before sending the hogs, so you want to avoid that KS taking out a DGB as well. Ideally, you want both DGBs over a jump's distance away from the AQ compartment, but if one isn't, it's not the end of the world because you have another one.
Regardless of how you set up your giant bombs, putting a few fake double and single giant bomb spots can make it hard to predict where the actual bombs are.
Spring Traps
The best way to ensure hogs will properly trigger springs is to put them between inner and outer defences. No matter what angle they approach they'll have to run through it, especially if you put trash buildings on either side of the spring. Springs placed outside outer defences or in between neighbouring defences can also work, but can be avoided; a two finger/surgical drop will probably avoid the spring in between the cannon & archer tower, and you'll avoid the spring by the mortar as long as you hog from the other side.
Other Traps & BK
- A high-level BK (20+) taking swings at hogs amidst defences can have a noticeable impact, so some bases have him far away from the AQ so he doesn’t get taken out with her.
- Ground skeleton traps can be used to stall the KS or harass hogs.
- Hogs running into a tesla farm usually need a heal (especially if it's among other defences), so this is a great way to force attackers to use one without the need of a giant bomb. Springs also work great in between teslas.
- Small bombs are usually placed outside walls to counter wallbreakers, but you can also put them inside the base; six bombs together do 252 damage, which is just over 50% of a hog's full HP. You can also group them with a giant bomb to form a makeshift DGB. The damage output is technically enough to kill them outright (hog HP = 475, giant bomb + 4 small bombs = 505.5 damage). However, it relies on the hogs being in range of every bomb and them going off all at the same time, meaning that pre-healing the area usually prevents the hogs from dying, even if youuse all 6.
Part 5: Miscellaneous Stuff & Recent Trends
Exterior Defences
Maybe it's just me, but I hate attacking bases with defences outside the walls, especially if they're on the side where I want to enter. I talked about this in the king swap section, but they dictate where the golems will go, and if the base has a lot of them the golems might actually circle the base.
There is a wallbreaker-killing trick involving exterior defences and teslas set 3 tiles behind a wall. (Technically the exterior defences aren't necessary, but it makes the trick more effective.) Suppose the attacker wants to enter the base here. The golems will get pulled to the defences on the sides, and most attackers will deploy wallbreakers down the middle to avoid them getting killed by splash damage. However, the wallbreakers will trigger the tesla and die before opening the wall. Even if they send a test wallbreaker, the golems will likely be out of range of the tesla (because of the exterior defences), and the tesla will just sit there roasting future wallbreakers.
The danger with exterior defences is that they're often exposed, meaning they could be picked off with a minion or a loon, so make sure there is some air coverage or red air bombs in the area.
AQ Walks/Charges
I've mentioned this topic a few times already, but because of how strong it is and how popular it's becoming, it gets its own section. It's difficult to figure out how to defend it, but here are my thoughts:
- As mentioned earlier, I think the best way to counter an AQ walk is to discourage it altogether. Having your giant bombs and ADs out of range is enough in some cases, but be careful about putting lots of defences along a side because that also gives up a lot of value.
- I would recommend a similar approach for defending AQ charges (i.e. when the AQ goes into the base rather than around). Make sure the AQ can't disable both DGBs from one compartment and don't have more than 2 reachable ADs.
- The added benefit of putting your ADs slightly out of range is that they can target the healers, especially if the AQ walks by or goes around a corner.
- Putting high-HP buildings, like storages and the TH, in range of an AQ walk will eat up time and stall her in certain areas.
- On that note, a great place to stall her is at a cluster of point defences. Assuming a 4-healer AQ walk, you'll need at least three point defences on her at once to force a rage or ability; two will make her HP decrease but only slowly. Point defences include x-bows (ground x-bows are especially useful because of their range), archer towers, cannons, and teslas (less useful because by the time the AQ triggers the tesla she'll likely be shooting it). Ground skeleton traps can also stall her, and the defensive BK not only stalls but acts as a mega point defence because of his damage and HP.
- When healers get pushed by a sweeper, they temporarily stop healing the AQ, so having them guard those clusters of point defences can make the walk even more difficult. What you don't want to do with your sweepers is to push healers out of range of your ADs, so be very careful about how you point them.
- Attackers often pull the CC to the AQ mid-walk, especially on fresh attacks. Usually she can easily dispose of whatever comes out, although she may need the help of a poison/rage. In some cases, attackers would rather not trigger the CC with the AQ because whatever is in there might not affect the rest of the army (e.g. a hound CC does nothing to golems/BK/valks/hogs). So, if you want to ensure the CC gets on the AQ, and have a good idea where the attacker will likely AQ walk, you can offset your CC towards that area. (In my opinion, the trickiest CC troop for a lone AQ to deal with is a max pekka, which often forces the use of her ability.)
- You can also try making it hard to direct the AQ. A lot of AQ walks I see start from a corner, so the main idea is to bunch up the outside buildings and create a small gap from the side buildings, which influences where the AQ will go. For example, if you drop her at the SW intending for her to go towards 9 oc, she will actually loop back around and head towards 3 oc. The circled buildings are key; the position of those buildings will cause her to go up against the wall and loop around because the remaining stuff in the west won't be close enough. In order to stop this, you'd have to funnel the AQ the other way by taking out the builder hut/gold mine, which is very possible but costs troop space, especially with the archer tower there. A similar thing will happen if you drop her at the SE hoping for her to go towards 3 oc; she will eventually round the corner and go the other way (in this example, where she gets dropped is a huge factor, but I believe she will end up going west in most cases). Now, experienced AQ-walkers may spot what you're trying to do and adapt, but if they don't their attack could be ruined.
- One reason that the AQ tends to shoot walls is that although her attack range is 5 tiles, her vision range is 8 tiles. Therefore, if there is no reachable building within 8 tiles of where she is standing, she will look for ANY building within 8 tiles, and if she sees one, she'll go for it, even if she has to go through a wall. What this means is you can set up your buildings to force her to shoot a wall. That setup looks innocent enough, but let's say you start the AQ on the right. She'll go up and to the left, but look at what remains after she takes out the gold mine. You would think she'd keep walking to take out the elixir collector, but because it's ~10 tiles away, it's outside her vision range. However, she CAN see the AD, so that's what she'll target, and so she'll shoot the wall. A similar thing happens if you drop her at the left; the eastern barracks will be outside her vision so she'll hit the wall.
Valks
So, I spent quite a bit of time thinking about how to stop valks, and I could only come up with one, not-so-effective idea. But I'll share it anyway. First off, there are two general ways I see valks used. One is to send them in with the BK straight for the enemy AQ (i.e. a reinforced "king swap"). I've already touched on king swaps above; adding the valks means the troops will keep going after killing the AQ, so the key is to not have much of value there (e.g. GBs not too close to the AQ, remember?). The other is to bulk up a standard KS, to help them move through a large section of the base. My idea is related to this; I was trying to use the fact that valks seem to have a small vision range.
Let's use this unfinished base as an example. Suppose the attacker wants to enter from the north and double jump to the AQ with a valk-heavy KS. The way the buildings in that compartment are positioned will force the valks to the right. When they reach the tesla area, the valks will start beating the wall trying to get to that gold storage/archer tower, even if you've dropped the jump. This actually might cause the BK to ignore the jump as well (although his vision range, I think, is not as limited as the valks). If the valks don't take the jump, the AQ might not actually die, which might make the attack fail.
Admittedly, this requires fairly large compartments, and attackers can avoid the valks straying by simply adjusting the approach angle. (If they enter by the dark barracks and simply wait for the builder hut/tesla/AD to go down before sending in the valks, they will more than likely take the jump). So yeah...I'm still thinking of things to try, maybe someone can help me out. The good thing is that most valk attacks incorporate other troops (hogs/loons) quite heavily, so stopping those could help.
Offset CCs
The point of a centralized CC is to prevent easy lures, but nowadays no one really minds dealing with the CC on the fly with a poison and/or rage, so some have tried offsetting them. As mentioned above, one reason is to try and force the enemy AQ to deal with it during a walk, but offset CCs can affect non-AQ walk attacks as well. There are two basic directions you can shift the CC:
- Towards the AQ: This pretty much ensures troops will have to deal with the CC before they get to the AQ. Thus, it can serve as a way to stall troops from cheaply getting the AQ, like king swaps.
- Away from AQ: This adds an interesting wrinkle. If the attacker goes straight at the AQ, the CC might not trigger at all, meaning whatever's inside would likely engage the rest of the army, which could be good or bad depending on what's inside. If they take a longer route to get the AQ, they have to deal with the CC quite early, which usually isn't a big deal but could stall the KS.
The clear weakness to an offset CC is that you can simply lure and deal with it at the start of the attack, whether it's with two poisons or pulling it to a corner and distracting it. If you try this, I would recommend putting something is hard to poison (golem/hound/pekka) or something surprising like all barch (so they waste troops and time getting it all out).
Deadzones/Dead Space/Empty Core
A relatively new concept, this is when you have an area with basically nothing inside (except wall pieces so someone can't drop troops in it). They are generally used to separate parts of the base from the AQ. Because troops will not go into an empty compartment, it forces them around, which can restrict the number of ways to access the AQ.
In this illustration, it's easy to negate the DGB and get the AQ with a KS and a single jump. However, make that middle compartment a deadzone and you take away that option. Same with this style of base; if the core wasn't empty, I could theoretically bring a large KS from 9 oc and double jump through the core, taking out every bomb on the way to the AQ. The empty core prevents this by pathing troops around, meaning they'll most likely miss one of the two DGB spots.
However, while dead space often prevents the simpler routes, it can inadvertently weaken other paths. If we look at that base again, if a KS (especially with valks) starts from 9 oc and takes the southern route to the AQ, there will be very little resistance for two reasons. One, there's little chance of the troops straying, and two, there are no defences in the core so nothing will flank the KS. While the KS might not get the northern DGB, they will likely tear through everything else, leaving that DGB as an annoying but pretty easy to deal with.
In addition to bringing a large KS, split-hero attacks are often very effective because multiple armies can skirt around the empty compartment and target key areas. They can also be quite vulnerable to air because the pathing to the ADs is usually quite simple, since there's an entire area loons or dragons won't even travel to. Nevertheless, a well-designed deadzone base can really take attackers out of their comfort zone, especially if they haven't gone up against them before.
Of course, you can be sneaky and stick teslas or bombs in there. Then it's not technically dead space, but if it works... :P
Part 6: Final Thoughts
- the general order to design bases in is: AQ area -> rough outline of walls -> ADs -> giant bombs -> defence pathing to bombs/ADs -> rest of the defences -> everything else. I used to do the walls last, but I found myself making compartments susceptible to EQ so I switched to putting down walls early.
- If you're new to TH9 base design, my suggestion would be to check out a recap between some good war clans and look at a few of their TH9 war bases. Once you get a feel for what they tend to look like, try and figure out why things are placed where they are. If you see something you like, implement it in your own base; having a starting point is much easier than building from scratch.
- A really useful way to analyze a base is to ask "How would I/you attack it", and then tweak it to make that attack difficult. Keeping up with the popular attack strategies is important so you know what to defend against.
- Be creative! Some things you would've never seen a year ago are currently the meta, so don't be afraid to try some really wacky stuff (including going against this guide :D). Maybe you'll start the next big trend.
- Thanks for reading! Hope it was helpful, questions/feedback is appreciated!
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